Tuesday, January 24, 2017

Lieutenant Colonel James Owen Merion Roberts, LVO, MBE, MC (1916-1997)


James Owen Merion Roberts –“the father of trekking” in Nepal. He was one of the great Himalayan mountains-explorers of the 20th century. In 1950 H.W. Tilman and another five compatriots; among five one was J.O. M Roberts. They trek on foot from the Kathmandu to Annapurna Massif by exploring mountain ranges.
He was born in India and joined the army; spent his early life in India. His first major expedition was in 1938 to Masherburm (7890m) - one of the highest mountain in Ghance District, Pakistan and also known as K1. In 1939 he climbs Chau Chau Kang Nilda accompanied by his Gurkhas; this creates him hallmark. This was his career turnover.
He was founder of the first trekking and mountaineering outfit Mountain Travel Nepal (1964) and trained Gurkha/Sherpa in the field of Trekking and Expedition. His first trekking organized by him Everest Base Camp in 1965. He acted as bird-collector for the British Museum and in Pokhara. His work in Nepal and Himalayas be always remarkable by trekkers in Himalayas for more. He had requested to scattered his ashes in Seti Khola which flows down from Fish Tail. 
  
Army career

His army career always had been more closed with Gurkhas soldier. In North Africa he served with the 1st battalion. In India work with Gurkha 153 Para Battalion. In 1944 he took part in Sangshak defense against the Japanese. He led first combat paratrooper jump in southeast Asia on 1 May 1945. He was posted in Malaya until 1954. He retired from the British Army in 1962 post of Lieutenant Colonel.


Climbing career 

1939; gave turnover in his career and make him hallmark.
In 1941 was his second major expedition, Dharmsura and named it as White Sail (Tos Glacier of Kullu Himalaya)
1946 Saser Kangri massif
1950 his mountaineering career began in Nepal. Roberts joined the Bill Tilman to the Annapurna massif 
1950. But this expedition was failed because of badly organized: he saw a lot of the Nepalese Mountainscape
1953 he explores three valleys: south and southwest of Everest and first ascent of Mera peak 6654 meters on 20 may with Sen Tensing
1954 his first ascent of Putha Hiunchuli 7246 meters: The Dhaulagiri group with Ang Nyima with G. Lorimer
1956 Reconnaissance of Machapuchare
1957 Led Machapuchare expedition 6993 meters: the expedition team stopped in 150 feet (46 m) unclimbed, considered as holy peak.
  [climbed fluted peak also known as single chuli: located west of Ganggapurna in Annapurna range]
1960 the army Mountaineering Association Annapurna II expedition 7937 meters and Chris Boningtion’s first major Himalayan summit
1962 Dhaulagiri 7660 meters reached 6400 meters on masking peak Dhaulagiri VI
1963 Work with American Mount Everest Expedition
1965 Dhaulagiri IV expedition Joint leader
1971 work as team with Norman Dyhrenfurth of the International Everest Expedition.

more about him 

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